Lo único que me interesaba ver en Iquitos, del gran abanico de posibilidades existentes, era el mariposario. Iquitos es ciudad más grande del mundo inaccesible por tierra y ofrece varias actividades y excursiones para hacer. Pero como mi presupuesto es reducido tenía que decidirme por una. De buena fuente leí que el mariposario era la mejor alternativa y las pocas fotos que encontré me convencieron.
Quedamos en ir con Amne, una argentina que estaba en el mismo hostel, y dos inglesas que conocí en el viaje de Pucallpa a Iquitos. Nos encontramos en IPerú, el centro oficial de información turística; allí se nos sumó Stephi, una belga que también viajó con nosotras.
La chica de la oficina de turismo nos contó sobre todo lo que teníamos para hacer. Nos dijo que cada tramo en lancha-colectivo costaba 3 soles y que como éramos varias podíamos negociar y contratar una lancha privada; alegó que en las lanchas-colectivos hay que esperar a que se llenen y eso puede llevar más de media hora (un poco exagerado de su parte, en ningún tramo esperé más de diez minutos). Sin embargo omitió un dato importante: en Padre Cocha –un poblado a 15 minutos en lancha desde el Puerto Nanay de Iquitos- hay dos mariposarios, uno original y uno trucho.
Yo solo quería ir al mariposario, pero la mujer nos mostró otras actividades que a mis amigas le interesaron. Como no me quería quedar afuera de la salida de chicas, terminé sumándome al plan.
Salimos para Nanay, y cuando estábamos llegando con el mototaxi un hombre prácticamente se nos tiró encima. Esto ya me ha pasado varias veces, que no esperan a que llegues, pagues y te bajes; por el contrario te gritan mientras estás en movimiento y buscas el dinero para pagar.
Esta situación me hizo percibir de inmediato que había algo raro. Nunca confío en la gente que vende algo desesperadamente y que te apabulla sin dejarte pensar. El tipo se subió en la parte de atrás del mototaxi y fue parado hasta el final de la calle donde nos dejó el conductor, quien que le pedía que esperara hasta que llegáramos para hablarnos. El vendedor, como buen vendedor, no paraba de hablar. “Podes esperar a que lleguemos”, le pedí. Es que honestamente me ponen muy nerviosa.
Cuando llegaron las chicas, nos apabulló de tal forma que yo solo me limité a mirarla a Amne y preguntarle si a ella le parecía bien, porque a mí el tipo no me cerraba, pero quizás era solo un prejuicio mío. Lo consultamos con el resto del grupo y decidimos ir con él.
Ya arriba del bote nos aclaró que no era él quien vendría con nosotras sino su hermano. Nos dijeron que primero iríamos al mariposario, donde solo había mariposas. “¿Pero no hay monos también?” le pregunté. “No, ya no. Ahora solo hay mariposas”. Y esto último lo aclaró dos veces. Como lo que yo había leído era de hacía más de un año, quizás había cambiado pensé.
Nos dijo que con su barco nos podía dejar en la entrada del lugar. Sin embargo, la chica de IPerú nos había dicho que desde puerto había que caminar. Yo seguía sin saber qué era lo que me hacía ruido o no me cerraba. Pero como casi siempre en estas situaciones, lo descubro al final.
Cuando llegamos al mariposario nos cobraron 20 soles y no 30 como nos había dicho la chica de IPerú. Demasiadas diferencias. Pero la mayor diferencia fue al verlo, no se parecía a nada de lo que yo había visto en internet.
El lugar era pequeño. Junto a una mesa nos esperaba nuestro guía, un estudiante de biología. Cuando le pregunté por la historia del lugar me dijo que desde hacía cinco años estaban en esa locación, que antes estaban más lejos, pero me sugirió que si quería saber más hablara con el dueño, el señor que nos había recibido en camiseta blanca de dormir.


Se hace la muerta
Al finalizar la visita fui hasta él, me presenté y le pregunté, junto con Amne, cómo había surgido el proyecto y si nos podía contar un poco más sobre él. Y acá se viene la mentira, muy bien armada y aprendida de memoria, del señor Robles:
“Yo estudié para veterinario y trabajaba para un proyecto de Austria. Pero como vino la crisis y el país estaba muy mal, Austria decidió dar de baja el proyecto e indemnizarme (años noventa). Me propusieron ir a otro país, pero yo no me quería ir de Perú. Cuando había estado allá había visto un mariposario amazónico. Y pensé, cómo puede ser que Austria y Alemania tengan mariposarios y Perú no. Así que con mucho esfuerzo y con los ahorros que me quedaban decidí fundar uno.
Empecé muy de abajo. Con una oruga que a los ocho meses se murió y otra vez todo de nuevo. Tuve que enviar a mi ex esposa para que averiguara un poco sobre el negocio en Costa Rica, donde estaba el único mariposario de América, pero le cerraron las puertas y le dijeron ´si quiere aprender vaya a la selva´. Todo desde cero, tuve que comprarme un libro de Alemania para poder aprender”.
Yo a esas alturas ya tenía ganas de abrazarlo, pensaba “pobre tipo, que suerte que vine y colaboré con su proyecto con la entrada”. Él continuó diciendo: “A mí no me interesa hacer plata con esto, porque con un mariposario no se hace dinero, sino generar un proyecto educativo. Nosotros educamos a las comunidades y ahora los chicos ya no pisan las orugas, sino que las traen para que las conservemos. Yo también mataba orugas, por desconocimiento. Por eso educamos a las comunidades”. Hermoso todo.

***
Dos días después de esta visita, fuimos para Padre Cocha, donde nos alojó Eduardo. En su lodge había dos rusos hospedados y a la noche nos juntamos todos a charlar. Valen, la chica, cuenta que habían ido al mariposario y que salía 30 soles. “Pero yo pagué 20, que raro”, le dije. “No sé, había un cartel que decía el precio”, me contestó.
Yo no vi ningún cartel, pensé. La conversación siguió y en un momento Eduardo nombró a la señora Gudrun, de Austria, la dueña del mariposario. Yo pensaba que Eduardo se estaba equivocando, el dueño era el señor Robles, con el que había hablado.
En ese momento no quise interrumpir pero al rato cuando Eduardo volvió a hablar del mariposario de la señora Gudrun, y de que él siempre lleva a sus parientes para ver todos los animales, porque el mariposario también es un centro de rescate, yo pensé “para un momento. Acá nada me cierra. Hay dos dueños, dos precios diferentes y varios animales que yo no vi”.
Entonces le conté a Eduardo que yo había conocido al señor Robles y que él era el dueño del mariposario, pero me respondió: “Ah, no, tú has ido al otro mariposario. Claro, has estado en donde Robles, el es el ex esposo de la señora Gudrun, por eso has pagado 20 soles, porque él solo tiene mariposas”. Y cuando le explico la situación del puerto Nanay me responde “Es que es todo así. Ellos te llevan a donde tienen comisión, Robles les da una comisión entonces te llevan a ese mariposario y ni te avisan que hay otro. Lo mismo pasa con el restaurante, los platos cuestan 40 soles porque ellos se quedan con la mitad”.
Cuando terminó de pronunciar esas palabras me sentí la más tonta del universo. Primero por no haber sido capaz de preguntar e insistir sobre el mariposario, segundo por tragarme una mentira entera, tercero por no escuchar mi instinto.
Al otro día me dirigí al mariposario de Gudrun para contarle la situación y poder conocer la verdad en primera persona. Al llegar vi que estaban los dos mariposarios uno frente a otro, algo que yo no vi porque a mí me llevaron al puerto del trucho directamente.
No hay punto de comparación ni siquiera entre las entradas. El mariposario original, Pilpintuwasi –que significa casa de las mariposas en quechua-, cuenta con una entrada cuidada con letreros, señalización y un pasaje verde y de madera mágico. Con solo el caminar los metros de entrada ya podía concluir que me habían estafado. Pero cuando llegué a la recepción y vi una parte del parque, concluí que lo habían hecho con furia.
Obviamente Gudrun sabía lo que pasaba y estaba muy al tanto del mariposario trucho montado frente al de ella. También de cómo los tipos de los tours están comprados. Lo que me dijo es que, normalmente, en IPerú dan aviso de la situación. Nosotras habíamos tenido mala suerte.
Su ex marido puso el otro mariposario para destruirla cuando ella lo dejó, de despecho nomás; pero de mariposas no sabe nada. Empezó comprándolas y ahora tiene un par de estudiantes que lo ayudan.
Y si bien no ha logrado destruirla y no lo va a lograr nunca, sí ha conseguido minarla de malos comentarios en las redes sociales o páginas como Tripadvisor, porque la gente es llevada a su mariposario con la idea de que va a Pilpintuwuasi y cree que ha sido engañada. Para colmo, varias agencias de viajes venden el tour a Pilpintuwasi pero llevan a los turistas al trucho. Como el caso de unos franceses, que cuando preguntaron por los demás animales que les habían dicho que habían al venderles el tour, Robles los mandó a lo de Gudrun, ese nivel de desfachatez maneja el señor.
***
Pilpintuwasi es un lugar hermoso, donde es evidente la responsabilidad y el amor por los animales. El centro de rescate se inició el día que alguien le dejó un jaguar en una caja a la dueña, en la puerta. El Estado decidió que lo mejor era que el lugar se ocupara del animal – buena forma de delegar responsabilidades- y Gudrun no pudo decir que no. Desde ese momento hasta el día de hoy, cada animal rescatado es entregado al mariposario para que cuiden de él. Pero la entrega del animal no viene acompañada de un subsidio ni de dinero para mantener a los animales –que requieren de cuidado humano y alimentación; por eso Pilpintuwasi necesita de donaciones y de las visitas para poder mantener el gran espacio que tiene.
Por supuesto que el otro mariposario no tiene nombre ni aparece en ningún lado. No hay forma de escracharlo en sus redes, porque no existe una. La única manera que existe para combatirlo, para mí, es difundir el caso. Que todos los que estén por ir a Iquitos tengan en claro, al menos, que hay dos mariposarios. Después es una cuestión de elección. Con ese objetivo en mente he escrito este post. En mí opinión por 10 soles de diferencia no hay punto de comparación.


Datos
*En Padre Cocha hay dos mariposarios:
-Pilpintuwasi, el original, que además de un mariposario es un centro de rescate. Su costo es de 30 soles e incluye guía.
-El trucho (sin nombre) que cuesta 20 soles e incluye guía.
*La forma de llegar desde Iquitos es mediante lancha. La lancha-colectivo cuesta 2 soles. En mi experiencia no esperé más de 10 minutos para salir. Al llegar hay que caminar unos veinte o treinta minutos hasta el mariposario.
*Los tours privados en lancha pueden salir desde 25 soles (depende del nivel de negociación) para ir a tres lugares. Para mí no lo vale para nada. Además que hay todo un negociado de fondo que yo no comparto.
*Algo que a mí me gustó mucho fue el atardecer en el mirador. Desde allí se ve la selva y el río Amazonas. Lo recomiendo mucho. Sale 2 soles y también se puede llegar en lancha-colectivo.
*En Iquitos hay muchas actividades, mi único consejo es que averigüen muy bien antes, principalmente si son centros de rescates reales. Hay muchos lugares que los venden como centro de rescate y cuidado de animales y no son más que un zoológico.
*Dónde dormir: si les gusta la naturaleza les recomiendo dormir en Padre Cocha, hay varios lodges y lugares muy lindos. Nosotros dormimos en Anguila Lodge. Su dueño Eduardo es una magnífica persona que, además, recibe voluntarios para que lo ayuden con el mantenimiento del lugar.
En Iquitos, si quieren dormir en el centro hay dos opciones: hoteles muy caros o un monopolio que engaña –si el engaño no termina más- con las fotos falsas que ponen en booking. La mejor opción es dormir fuera del casco histórico, cerca del mercado Belén por ejemplo.
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